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Mezzojournal: 7 Days in Palermo, Sicily, Where Life Happens on the Street

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Noting my empty glass, the waiter didn’t even bother asking, he just brought another small carafe of the house red. The first one had disappeared with antipasti and a plate of pasta ca ancióva. The second would be helpful in dispatching the coming purpetti ri sardi, balls of minced sardines, tomatoes and capers. I didn’t ask for dessert either, but the waiter silently placed a bottle of limoncello in front of me, with a mini cannoli, a cookie, and a wedge of watermelon. On the house.

I was in Altri Tempi, a classic trattoria on Via Sammartino in Palermo. After paying the check (unbelievably, only 15 Euros), I suppressed the urge to hug my waiter and headed out into the strong Sicilian sun. I walked through Continue Reading →

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